How could you not be fascinated by such a man – born in Byers Green  on September 22 1711.Many of his manuscripts, and background material(1)  are held in Durham University Library. Though no modern biography of him has been written, various articles and papers exist (2) showing a wide range of interest in both his scientific work, and his architectural and garden designs. An exhibition of his life and work was held in1993 in Durham (3), though plans for a more permanent memorial to him at Byers Green were never realised. A  plaque marking the position of his house, Byers Green Lodge, and a stained glass window in St Peter’s Church  do serve as reminders of this great man, who seems in many ways a forgotten soul.

George Allen(4) writes eloquently of his late friend in The Gentleman’s Magazine in January 1793,. Here we can trace his development, and his early disappointments at being unable to publish his work, before he finds patronage first from Rev Newcombe of Sunderland, and then the Earl of Scarborough.

‘Mr .Wright’s better stars were now rising upon him’

Wright was encouraged to move London and  published ‘Pannauticon the Universal Mariners Magazine in 1734.

Allan tells us ‘the work.. ‘was received with much applause, and gained him the attention of several personages of the first rank.’

And later ‘Mr Wright having obtained an introduction to many great families where a very honourable attention was paid him for his scienticfic knowledge, we find several of his succeeding years filled with a rotation of visiting, and journeys to the houses of illustrious personages ,yet even then we see him pursuing his studies with unremitting ardour and teaching the sciences to persons of the first distinction.’

So well known did Wright become that In 1742 he was invited to become Chief Professor of Navigation in St Petersburgh, but declined  Allan tells us ‘so acceptable had Mr Wright rendered himself to people of fashion and so much was science at that period thought an object of attention with those of high rank, and both sexes’

He continued his scientific work publishing widely, including  in1750 ‘An Original Theory of New Hypothesis of the Universe’ in which he famously gave an explanation for the appearance of the Milky Way as an optical effect due to the position of the solar system in a layer of stars.

In 1755  Wright purchased Pegg‘s Poole house where he was born, and with additional land began to build his house, and it’s garden in Byers Green , though Allan states he continued ‘his rambling life till 1762, when he retired into the country’.

Wright was to spend the remaining years of his life here, supported in his retirement  by an annuity from Lord Bottetourt though still engaged in scientific studies, and architectural design. The Deer House at Auckland Castle and the gateway to the North Park on the Durham road were designed for Bishop Trevor, and later he advised on improvements to the castle for Bishop Egerton and his wife Lady Anne Sophie (nee Grey) whom he had taught in earlier years.

 

Allan tells us ‘there was something flighty and eccentric in his notions and a wildness of fancy followed even his ordinary projects, so that his house was not built or fitted up ,upon the model, or in the order of other men’s building.

The garden land became terraced houses in the early 1900’s,but the house remained until 1967 when it was unceremonously bulldozed into adjacent claypits – ‘I can remember my Mother standing by and weeping’ I have been told and no wonder when we read Wright’s words ‘The staircase is ornamented with my own works , particularly a large scheme of the universe , the visible creations, the sun, the moon, and systems of planets and comets’

His words come from a wonderful description of Byers Green and his house, in a piece also submitted by Allan (4)to a later edition of The Gentleman’s Magazine 1793 ‘Mr Wright’s  Description of his Villa at Byers Green’, a piece written in the form of a letter to a friend.

‘You say you should be very glad to read a description of a place that renders all the charms of London so insipid’.

‘My place is distant from the metropolis by nearly 260 miles;… you must turn off at the two mile stone from Castle Auckland ,and two miles more of irregular road will bring you to my gates…..I cannot well call it a villa from its miniature ,situated as it is in a vast amphitheatre, bounded by high hills on every side, through which a beautiful river winds at about 20 miles to the sea.’

‘The house stands in the centre of a plantation of my own rearing, mostly of forest trees and flowering shrubs of every kind both foreign and domestic… rich with various evergreens and flowers.’

‘Here I have perfect tranquillity though in a village, having no house nearer than a hundred yards. In almost every part of my garden I have a retreat from bad weather, and shelter from every wind ,and at the same time commanding most pleasant views.’

‘In the village front is an open view…the town extending a full half mile long and near a furlong wide, all of green turf..There is a bowling green before the house, and in the centre of town; the whole being nearly in the proportion of a Roman circus, and here frequently are both horse and foot races.’

‘Near to this village is also a manifest(unmistakable)RomanCircus , all good ground and two miles in compass. This I procured to be restored in 1778 by subscription of the neighbouring gentlemen, and it is judged to be the finest piece of race ground in the North of England.’

‘When I indulge myself with poetic ideas I can naturally conceive myself with an Olympus before me,a mount Heamus on one side and Panassus on the other.’

‘…but those who are attached to the pleasures of the town I fear can have no just idea of the calm and serene sensations of such a life.’

His pieces ends with Besides all this I have an agitation to erect a Gothic tower on one of the highest hills in the country and have been several years preparing materials for this. He is writing of Westerton Tower, that stands on a high ridge near Byers Green, affording wide views across the county in all directions. This is a building at risk, currently closed to the public, that one hopes does not suffer the same fate as his house.

ThomasWrightThomas Wright Plaque at Byers Green

Thomas Wright was buried in St Andrew’s Auckland churchyard on 25th Feb 1786. His daughter Elizabeth August 23 1788, aged 24, lies with him.

(1) Thomas Wright manuscripts ref.GB-0033-WRM , and Wrightiana Durham University Library, Archives and Special Collections.

(2) Bibliography  from  M.J.Tooley 1993

(3) M.J. Tooley 1993 Thomas Wright of Durham 1711-1786. An exhibition of his life & work held in University of Durham Library, Palace Green, Durham

(4) George Allan (1736 -1800) lawyer in Darlington and local antiquarian who acquired manuscripts belonging to Wright.

The vicar of St Peter’s Church, Byers Green for his last 20 years, a memorial to Rev Hooppell hangs near the pulpit there. He  was a learned man, and social reformer who left two legacies to the area.

He was principle of The Nautical College at South Shields when the Roman Station of Arbeia was discovered in the 1860’s, and so  began his interest and study of roman antiquities. When at Byers Green he instigated the first archeological dig at Vinovia ,now Binchester Roman Fort  supported by John Proud from Bishop Auckland. He lectured widely and wrote extensively of the findings, publishing ‘Vinovia- a buried Roman city’ Whiting & Co. London 1891.

Byers Green was almost the village at the ‘end of the road’ being bound on it’s North side by the River Wear that was only passable by a dangerous ford, and latterly a ferry crossing. Rev Hooppell campaigned and raised funds that resulted in the first permanent crossing to the river – Queen Victoria Jubilee Bridge  that takes us to Willington today.

Bill lived in the village most of his life, and we were lucky to know him, but unfortunately we were busy people, less interested in the history of the place and didn’t make use of his knowledge in the way we would have done now.

The catalogue of Bill’s work deposited with Durham County record office runs to almost 200 pages and relates to the period 1768 to 2002.

Scores of photographs – historic images, and many his own work of village people in the 70’s and 80’s going about their daily lives, and at village events; scrapbooks of cuttings; audio tapes and transcripts; printed ephemera of all kinds – like school logs from the 1860’s, Church magazines, minutes of village meetings, bills and bus tickets; scale models he made of village buildings.

In half an hour on my last visit to the record office I was able to see a photo of Percy Cradock’s fireplace (an old range) read the Workingman’s Club Rule book from 1908, and learn from a tape transcript that Dr Kane was ‘unhappy’ that the land edging his house, now Wear View, was used as a football pitch-‘noisy and disruptive’; so man of influence that he must have been ,had the pitch moved to the Railway Gates at the other end of the village!

This depository of Bill and his wife Greta’s work provides an invaluable record for Byers Green, and future generations.

Robert McFarlane appears in the first census of 1841aged 20, living at Byers Green Hall (now The Old Hall) with Robert & Charlotte Newcombe, both in their 60’s. This census did not require occupations to be given so there is no way of knowing whether the Newcombes were involved in medical practice, or even Robert at this time. His place of birth is given as Scotland, theirs as Durham.

By the 1851 census the occupants are Dr.Robert McFarlane, his older sister Jessie, and a lodger Henry George HARDY , assistant surgeon, who although termed British, was born in Frederickton, America.

In August of 1854 Robert suffers fatal injuries on a journey back from Durham ,falling from his dog-cart when the horse shies on the road through Spennymoor. His standing in the community is evidenced by a beautiful stained glass window in St Peter’s Church, Byers Green.

Dr. Hardy must have taken over the practice following Robert’s death and is shown in the 1861 census with his wife Anne Elizabeth and 4 children.All survive and 3 additional children are born by 1871; the household now includes George Oliphant McKANE, born in Hexham, as a non qualified assistant.

A memorial stone to Dr Hardy, his wife and son William Henry lies near the South gate of the St Peter’s churchyard .William died on the West Africa coast in 1884. Two other sons followed a career as doctors- John George was assistant medical officer at Durham Asylum, Sedgefield in 1881; and Charles a G.P.at Heighington in 1891 & 1901 Census. Another son Frederick maybe chose a different path, in the 1911 Census he is a motor & cycle dealer in Romford Essex.

By 1881 George McKANE is the resident’ physician and surgeon’ living with his wife Catherine (nee Watford) a local farmers daughter, and their daughter Ethel and son Rudolph, along with James Smith a medical student. In the Medical Register for 1913 George McKane is a G.P. in Lincolnshire; with sons Rudolph and William Oliphant G.P.s in Cleethorpes.

Thomas KANE, born in Ireland is Byers Green’s doctor in 1891, he remains till at least 1911; a widower who had married Lucretia Lockwood in 1893. Her death in July/Aug/Sept quarter 1894 sadly corresponds to the birth of a daughter Lucretia in the same quarter of that year. Dr. Kane died at Bishop Auckland in 1938.

In 1901 Thomas PICKEN is assistant medical practitioner with Dr. Kane; and in 1911 Bruce Edgar EDGE is assistant.

Things get more hazy after the Census information ends, but during the 1930’s , in living memory for some , the local doctors were Dr. A.C.Farquharson; and Dr S.D. JOUHAR probably the last doctor to live in The Old Hall .Dr. Jouhar was born in the Punjab in 1901and came to England in the 1920’s, qualifying as a doctor in 1931, Byers Green was probably his first practice.

Sartaj Din Jouhar , born in Amritsar in 1901 came to England during the  1920’s to study medicine. After qualifying in 1931 he lived and worked from The Old Hall serving the people of Byers Green and the surrounding villages. He was the last in a line of resident village doctors that stretches back nearly a century. A couple of people still remember him fondly from their childhood.

Although pursuing a life in medicine his  great achievements in amateur photography, an interest that began  during the 30’s, are how he is remembered today.

A Member of the Royal Photographic Society since 1938, achieving his Associateship in 1939, and his fellowship in 1940 he served on its Council for much of his life. He exhibited worldwide, and published both his writings and pictures extensively. ‘Jouhar on 35mm Picture Making’ published by Fountain Press 1955 may even be on your shelves!

A selection of his prints were available at London Photographic Fair last November. Do check out his story at www.sdjouhar.com

One also hangs in The Old Hall – Self Shadowgram – it seems fitting to have an original piece of his work here , I’m sure he would be pleased!

Internet searches uncover puzzles that can lead, in time, to surprising results. A reference to Byers Hall School, Yorkshire in a paper by Daniel Livesay (1) has led me over the months, by way of Michigan University and Devon, to learning about the Tailyour family, and being able to place the school referred to as being here at the Old Hall in Byers Green with a letter sent from John Bowman in April 1793 to Robert Taylor (Tailyour) regarding the well being of James Tailyour, a pupil at the school.

James is reported as ‘very hearty, and few there be that can exceed him in learning at his age ‘One hopes the school was unlike the notorious ‘Yorkshire schools’ of the time.

As to who else was present at the school remains unknown, though it is likely the younger sons Simon and John were also schooled here. In an earlier paper D. Livesay (2) makes reference to a recommendation  by Jasper Hall about the school, and suggests it had been here some time being run by John Bowman Snr.

In the history of the house this coincides with the period when the Shafto family of Whitworth had possession, rather than the Trotter family.

As yet little information has come to light concerning the John Bowman’s.

Extended Families:Mixed-Race Children and Scottish Experience 1770-1820 Daniel Livesay

International Journal of Scottish Literature Issue Four Spring2008

Children of Uncertain Future: mixed race migration from the West Indies to Britain 1750-1820 .

D.A. Livesay  ( Thesis published 2010)